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BHTN
Posted 8/27/ 11:21 (#)
Subject: Hydraulic Cylinder Question


West TennesseeThe contour master cylinder on my combine is leaking oil. This cylinder was put on new about this time last year. I wanted to try and see if I could take it apart to get seals for it (no kit from deere, replace only $400 or so... ouch ). It's the kind of cylinder that you take a c clip off of the end and drive the end cap into the cylinder. There is some sort of a ring that you have put into a grove in the cylinder barrel to remove the ram and piston. This ring prevents thet snap ring from going into that groove and lets the piston come out of the barrel. I've read enough to know all of this but I don't know what this ring is called or how to obtain one. From what I've read this ring will come with the cylinder kit but not sure how to get that without some measurements or something from the cylinder. Any help would be appreciated. In the past my calls to Baum Hydraulics have been substantially less than helpful but maybe the right person there would help with this. Any other thoughts are welcome.I have rebuilt several of the same style cylinders but not the specific one you reference. I have never had any sort of ring to fill the groove to disassemble as you mention. I have had to use some .002 inch shim stock to get the piston back into the bore without damaging the seals. Possibly the same technique would work for disassembly.
I would also do some checking in your area for a shop that repairs cylinders. Most of the cities around here have a machine shop that does.
INDY
INDY

Faunsdale, ALIf you're lucky, you will find a round wire snapring inside the cylinder when you push the head in. Remove it and then bump the head out with the piston by snatching on the rod.

Haven't had much luck with the groove filler rings when used for installing the head. Always seems to get caught by the seals on the way in and dragged into the cylinder causing a leak or at least leaving a piece of loose plastic cut off inside the cylinder. Any more I just smooth everything up with emery cloth so there's no rough edges to cut an o-ring, grease it up good and push it in.

If you don't have a snap ring that can be removed, then I would look for some shim stock or thin sheetmetal you can cut and put into the space around the head before you pull it.

Eastern NDProbably best option is bend over at ma Deere. Difficult to get parts, then have the bore be worn, rod worn, could be more trouble than just put on a new one.


West TennesseeNo luck on the snap ring. The only one accessible is the one on the outside and that only let's the gland (outside part ) go back into the barrel. Not come out. I thought about the kind like on header lift cylinders where you move a snap ring to another groove but the port on this cylinder is tiny and that's not an option. It's pretty clear that this recess in the cylinder barrel is letting the snap ring on the gland expand and hold the end cap in. I guess I don't know what shim stock is? This grove is soft of smooth v shaped into the side of the cylinder and I'm not sure how anything but something V shaped is going to do the job. Thanks for the input.


West TennesseeI'd really have no problem with that except that the one that's on there now has run less than 2,000 acres and the one before it that we have laying on the shop table has probably about the same amount. I'm thinking we're using less than optimum packings and so if I can get some good packing into it then maybe it will last longer. Thanks


West TennesseeIndianajones - 8/27/ 10:57

I would also do some checking in your area for a shop that repairs cylinders. Most of the cities around here have a machine shop that does.
INDY
INDY

Cities.....yes.....small towns like mine.....no. :- ( Nearest real hydraulic shop is about an hour and a half away and we'd have to leave it and come back in a week or two so like 4 hours for that deal. Obviously looking for an easier way out here but may be SOL. Thanks for the input.

NW WashingtonMaybe you should rebuild the old cylinder and keep a good spare on hand. Memphis can't be too far from your map dot.there was talk on one site, don't remember which one..but the grove was filled with a hard plastic that did not allow the snap ring to pop in to grove.....maybe take old cylinder and push it down and clean with a degreaser and mix up some bondo fill up grove..you could clean out the bondo good if you got it out....


West TennesseeYou may have just hit the solution right there. Thanks. If this hurricane thing comes to pass (please say it be so ) we may get a day or so to work on some little "issues" like this.

scksI know exactly what you're dealing with. I save all those "v" shaped pieces of plastic after i've gone through one of those wonderful cylinders. Go to the very back of your local JD shop, and you may find a tech that's smart enough to save them also. Once you have that you're good to go--5 bucks worth of o-rings,backup rings,seal and you're done.ccjersey
Posted 8/27/ 20:17 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: Re: Hydraulic Cylinder Question

Faunsdale, ALMight try Hercules-Bulldog. They are a mail order hydraulics/seals/gaskets company. I have a set of their catalogs, but not at home, and anyway they're about 10 years old now. If there is source for those parts, they should have them or know where to get them. Might need a micrometer to get the dimensions of the cylinder, rod, seal glands etc.

http://www.herculesus.com/WhiteFarms
Posted 8/27/ 22:07 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Hydraulic Cylinder Question

The seals went in my hydraulic steering (Teleflex HC Seastar) on the outboard side. Last year I replaced the quad o-ring on the helm end, and that was incredibly easy. The outboard end looks a tad more difficult, but still, pretty straight forward.

What I want to know, from people that have replaced the seals on that end, was there anything that came up that you didn't expect? Something always seems to come up, whether it's another part and/or kit you needed, or another special tool (other than the spanner wrench) to get it fixed, etc. Anything like that come up? I found a few sites that have the seal kit cheap, so I'm going to order it today. I just want to get anything else I need, that I wouldn't normally know about, on the same order IF it's necessary. If not, then that's awesome, I'm tired of spending money on the damn boat.

For a reference, the first link is what I'm talking about, and the second link is the seal repair kit I'm buying.

http://www.seastarsolutions.com/wp-c...5/-E.pdf

Teleflex HS- Seal Kit Without Wrench [] - $69.90 : Mavik Marine, 15,000 plus Marine Parts and accessories

I did this same repair about a 1-1/2 ago. I ordered the kit from Don at Europeon Marine. He and I talked about it and he said he had "lack luster results" when doing this repair. He said a lot of the time the entire steering assembly has to be replaced. That being said and knowing the cost of the repair vs. replacement I put in the repair kit. Knock on wood,it's held up just fine. It's a pretty easy job.