Thinking about radiant floor heating for your home? You’re in the right place. This ultimate guide covers everything you need to know about heated floors—from how they work to whether they’re worth the investment. Whether you’re interested in electric radiant floor heating or hydronic systems, we’ll help you understand the differences, benefits, and potential drawbacks.
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Inside, we’ll break down the pros and cons of radiant heat, explore how heated floors work, review the different types of systems, and explain how floor heating can add comfort and energy efficiency to any room in your house. You’ll also discover how warm heated floors can get, where they’re most commonly installed (like bathrooms, kitchens, and basements), and what to expect from the installation process.
By the end, you’ll have a complete picture of whether radiant floor heating is right for your space—and exactly how to get started.
If you’re not familiar, heated floors, or radiant floor heating, is a system where either electric wires or hot water pipes are installed underneath the flooring to create warmth. The heat then radiates up and warms the room evenly from the ground up. Radiant floor heating is an efficient way to heat a room since there are no bulky radiators or vents that can take up valuable space.
Radiant heated floors are the epitome of luxury and comfort. The idea of having warm floors to walk on during those cold winters or even enjoying the warm bathroom floors while you get ready for your day is very appealing. Radiant floor heating comes with a lot of benefits, as well as some drawbacks that are important to consider before making the investment. Let us explore in more detail below.
Sure, maybe we're biased but there really is a lot to like about installing heated floors!
The biggest benefit of floor-heating systems is their ability to uniformly heat a room and floor. Forced-air heating systems use vents to distribute warm air throughout a room. The location of the vents determines which parts of the room will be warmer than others. In contrast, underfloor radiant heating heats the entire floor, which leads to an evenly heated room and for an even ambient temperature around a person's body. This means that you will feel more comfortable at a lower ambient temperature level because you won't experience cold drafts.
Radiant floor heating systems do not require any maintenance. Once they are installed, they will last for 20+ years without any issues. If there is any cable damage during the installation process, a thermal imaging camera can be used to easily and quickly find and repair the issue. In case you need any floor heating support, WarmlyYours has you covered - 24/7!
Note: Hydronic floor-heating systems do not offer this benefit.
Imagine trying to concentrate on your work with the sound of a furnace running in the background. It would be very difficult to focus, right? This is not an issue with radiant floor heating as they are very quiet. Unlike forced-air systems, there isn’t a loud furnace that kicks on. Therefore, you won’t hear anything while they’re on.
Radiant floor heating does not move air around, meaning there is no circulation of dust or other allergens in the room. This is a major benefit for people who suffer from allergies or asthma.
Radiant floor heating is one of the most energy-efficient ways to heat your home. In fact, they are considered at least 20 to 25% more energy-efficient than forced-air heating systems. This is because the heat is evenly distributed throughout the room, so there is no need to overheat the room to compensate for cold spots. Additionally, radiant floor heating is very efficient because it doesn't rely on ductwork that can leak heat.
Furthermore, thanks to the advanced technology, you can easily regulate the temperature of the room using a Wifi Programmable Thermostat. This means that you only heat the room when you need to and can lower the temperature when you are not using the room. As a result, you save energy and lower your energy bills.
Generally speaking, the radiant floor heating cost to operate is very low. In fact, for a typical bathroom, it will cost you less than a dollar a day to run the system.
Electric floor-heating systems are so easy to install that a handy DIYer can even do it. Which electric in floor radiant system do you recommend? It depends on a large number of variables including project budget and installation capabilities but the good news is that floor heating systems can be used under almost any flooring type. They’re available in rolls that already have the heating cable attached to mesh in a serpentine pattern. Therefore, all the installer has to do is roll them out and cut and turn them where necessary to fill up the room. They’re also available in loose cable with an installation membrane that features square-shaped “studs” to hold the cable in place. This option also offers crack prevention benefits for a heated tile floor. In contrast, hydronic systems are not as easy to install. They require a professional for installation.
Another advantage of radiant floor heating installations is that they require no additional duct work, which can be both costly and time consuming.
Every coin has two sides, and radiant heated floors are no different. While there are many benefits, there are also some drawbacks that you should be aware of.
If you want to install radiant heated floors in your home, you will need to replace your existing flooring. This is because radiant heated floors need to be installed under the new flooring. The most popular choice for radiant heated floors is tile because it conducts heat very well. However, you can also choose from a variety of other options, including laminate, floating hardwood, nailed hardwood, vinyl (including LVT), etc.
Radiant heated floors need to be installed on top of a subfloor, so your existing flooring will be raised by about an inch. This can be an issue if you have doors that swing into the room, as they may not clear the new flooring. With our ultra-thin Environ heating mats and our TempZone floor heating elements (even with embedding thinset) the floor height increase will be much smaller (typically 19/64" for Environ plus CeraZorb insulation underlayment and 3/8" for TempZone heating elements embedded in thinset or SLC).
The initial cost of radiant heated floors can be higher than other types of heating systems. Depending on the system you purchase, electric floor heating systems range in price from $6 to $12 per square foot. You can use our Floor Heating Quote Builder to see how much a system costs for your project. You can also check out our Operating Cost Calculator to find out how much it will cost to run the system.
However, you need to keep in mind that radiant heated floors last much longer than other heating systems and are very energy-efficient. In the long run, you will actually save money by installing radiant heated floors.
Did you know that radiant heating systems date all the way back to the Roman Empire in the form of hypocausts? Traditional heating systems such as fireplaces and space heaters are inefficient when compared to radiant heating systems since they heat the air directly. This causes hot air to rise while the cold air sinks, resulting in an uneven distribution of heat in a room. Radiant floor heating overcomes this by warming the objects and people in a room directly.
The heated floors work by either circulating warm water through pipes or by passing an electric current through wires which generates electrical resistance. The heat then radiates up and warms the rest of the room evenly via radiation.
Have you ever walked into a room in your house that was noticeably colder? Or have you ever stepped out of the shower or tub and felt a chill? Most homes have these “cold spots” due to tile flooring, which is inherently cold, or other factors like a cement slab, unheated crawl space and unheated garage. If you're wondering, "Can radiant floor heating heat an entire house?" The answer is that while nearly all homes can benefit from radiant floor heating, floor heating won't always be enough to serve as the only heat source. To see if floor heating can be a primary heat source for your home, make sure to check out our Heat Loss Calculator.
Some of the most common rooms for radiant heat are bathrooms, kitchens, basement and bedrooms located over a garage or unheated space. To decide which radiant floor heating system is right for your project, you should first be familiar with the different types of radiant heating systems.
Most floor heating thermostats allow you to either control your radiant heating system with the ambient temperature (so the temperature in the room itself) or, if your system was properly installed with a floor sensor, with the floor temperature (the temperature that the floor sensor picks up). The floor temperature will almost always be warmer than the ambient temperature since some heat is lost to transference when the floor materials are warmed up.
While floor temperature can be set as high as 104° F, the floor temperature is usually set between 80° F and 85° F, which is comfortable for most people (depending on the room and ambient temperature).
The feeling of radiant heat is very similar to what you experience on a summer day when the sun suddenly appears from behind a cloud. Except in this case, you don’t have to worry about clouds when it comes to floor heating!
There are two types: electric and hydronic floor heating systems.
Electric radiant floor heating comes in a variety of options to suit different flooring types, installation methods, and project needs. Heating mats offer a quick and easy installation with pre-spaced cables attached to a mesh backing, making them ideal for full-room coverage. Loose heating cable provides greater flexibility for custom layouts and irregularly shaped spaces. For floating floors like laminate, engineered wood, or carpet, foil-based heating delivers an adhesive-free solution for evenly distributed warmth. Slab heating is designed for embedding directly in concrete, making it an excellent choice for basements, garages, and new construction. Manufactured custom-fit heating ensures a precise layout tailored to specific floor plans, eliminating the need for on-site adjustments. Lastly, our Pro Exclusive products feature advanced installation options designed for professional contractors, providing the highest level of customization and efficiency. With so many options available, electric radiant floor heating offers a versatile and efficient solution for any space.
Bathrooms
One of the most popular areas for heated flooring, avoiding cold tile floors after a warm shower or bath. A Heated bathroom floor provide a luxurious and comfortable experience; enhances morning routine.Kitchens
Ideal for standing while preparing meals or during cold mornings. A Warm kitchen floor provides warmth and comfort; improves the cooking experience. having can make the experience more comfortable.Bedrooms
Offers warm floors to step onto after waking up, creating a cozy environment. Provides a cozy and comfortable atmosphere, especially during colder months. Garages Typically unheated spaces that can be uncomfortable during winter. Installing a heated floor in your garage makes the garage more usable year-round for storage, workshops, or parking vehicles.Basements
Known for being cold and damp, but can be improved with heated floors.A Radiant basement floor heating makes basements more comfortable and inviting for storage, home gyms, or additional living spaces.
Home Offices Essential for maintaining comfort while working from home. Keeps you warm and focused throughout the day, even in the coldest winters.Sunrooms
Ideal for relaxation, but can be chilly in winter. Keeps sunrooms warm and comfortable year-round, allowing for year round enjoyment.Laundry Rooms
Often cold and uninviting, especially in basements. Makes doing laundry more pleasant; keeps feet warm during tasks like folding, ironing, and loading.. Driveways Melts snow and ice on driveways during snowy winters. While not technically inside your home, heated driveways; provides safer and easier navigation; eliminates need for manual snow removal.Hydronic floor heating, otherwise known as hot water heating, uses water that is heated by a boiler and then circulated through plastic pipes. The heat from the water warms the floor and radiates throughout the room.
Both electric and hydronic floor heating systems do the work of heating your floor to make your home more comfortable. There are, however, some differences in how they operate. Here's a quick rundown.
Electric radiant floor heating is easy to install and can be done as a DIY project. They are also more affordable up-front and are ideal for smaller areas or rooms. Additionally, they are versatile and can be used with all types of flooring. Finally, a properly installed electric floor heating system requires essentially no maintenance to run properly.
Hydronic radiant floor heating, on the other hand, can be used to heat larger areas than electric. It, however, takes a longer time to heat up compared to electric radiant floor heating, which typically takes around 30-50 minutes to heat up. This means you might have to leave them on for a couple of hours before you need the heat. Additionally, they are more expensive to install but can last for decades with proper maintenance. The installation is more complex and usually requires a professional. It also requires higher up-front costs because of the boiler and associated equipment.
Generally, both methods are effective in providing radiant floor heating. The main difference lies in the installation process, the cost, and the time it takes to heat up the floor.
Contrary to electric systems, hydronic floor-heating systems are typically more expensive upfront because they require a boiler, a pump and gas lines to operate. However, if they are being used throughout a house, their cost per square foot goes down because multiple rooms share the cost.
If you are doing a complete home remodel or building a new home, a hydronic in-floor heating system would be ideal. On the other hand, the electric radiant floor heating system would be a better and more affordable option if you are renovating a room (or a few rooms) or looking to only add floor heating to specific areas in your home.
Here are the steps to install heated flooring in your home. Please note that some of the steps below are largely related to our most popular floor heating product, the TempZone Flex Roll, but the general ideas are applicable to most electric floor heating elements.
To ensure a smooth installation process, begin by creating a professional floor plan. Measure the areas you want to heat, excluding spaces like toilets, air vents, vanities, cabinets, and islands. You can find tips on accurately measuring rooms yourself on our website. Once you have your measurements, submit them to WarmlyYours online, and within a day, you'll receive a customized floor plan showing how to efficiently warm your room and which products you need.
Your personalized floor plan will specify the exact floor-warming roll, mat, or cable needed for your project, along with the cost. To place your order, call 800-875- or visit ourFloor Heating Overview page to explore all available options.
Consider purchasing the Circuit Check from WarmlyYours, a small device that alerts you to any shorts or breaks in the system during installation. This simple product can help you avoid common DIY installation issues. Simply wire it to the mat during installation, and an alarm will sound if any damage occurs to the circuits. You can then check the area you were working on or where someone stepped to quickly resolve the issue. See video here for more details.
Before beginning the installation, test your WarmlyYours electric floor-heating system with a digital ohmmeter. The test results should be within 15% of the value marked on the UL label.
Carefully inspect your subfloor surface and remove any potential hazards that could damage the heating element, such as sharp edges, staples, or exposed nails. Once the area is clear, refer to the provided installation plan and mark off areas where permanent, heavy fixtures will be placed. To complete the installation, you'll typically need a digital ohmmeter, scissors, a staple gun, a Circuit Check, a tape measure, a hot glue gun, and optionally, a splice kit.
Following the instructions on your floor plan, roll out the mesh roll with the heating cable facing down to protect it during installation. When you reach a turn, cut the mesh across, being careful not to cut the heating cable, and move the remaining section of the cable into place to start your next run.
If you need to work around an object or corner, freeform the heating cable as indicated on your customized floor plan. Trim the tape, separate the heating element, and remove the mesh. Then, place the heating element in a serpentine design by hand, maintaining 3-inch spacing for optimal performance, and secure it to the floor with hot glue or tape.
Ensure the heating rolls are straight and properly spaced as you secure them to the floor using hot glue or staples, depending on the flooring type.
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Position the sensor between the heating cables, making sure not to overlap any of them. Weave the sensor between the mesh (spaced equidistant from two runs of the heating cable) or use hot glue to hold it securely in place, preventing it from moving when applying adhesive to embed the heating elements.
Using a digital ohmmeter, retest the rolls to ensure they are in good working condition. The test results should still be within 15% of the value marked on the UL label. Then, connect the WarmlyYours Circuit Check to confirm there are no shorts in the system.
Once you've confirmed that your heating rolls are working correctly, have a professional electrician wire your WarmlyYours thermostat according to the provided instructions.
Complete the project by installing your chosen flooring. Although it may be tempting to use your radiant heating system immediately, allow the thinset and grout to cure completely before powering it on.
See the installation process in action—this short video shows how TempZone™ Flex Rolls make radiant floor heating simple and efficient.
After weighing the pros and cons, it's clear that heated floors are a worthwhile investment for many homeowners. The initial cost seem high but the long-term benefits of energy efficiency, comfort, and luxury make radiant floor heating an attractive option. With proper installation, heated floors can provide consistent, even warmth for years to come, enhancing the overall comfort and value of your home.
Moreover, the versatility of heated floors allows for installation in various rooms, from bathrooms and kitchens to bedrooms and living spaces. The ability to control the temperature of individual rooms or zones further contributes to energy savings and personalized comfort. When considering the numerous advantages and the potential for increased home value, it's evident that heated floors are a smart choice for those seeking a superior heating solution.
To find out how much the in-floor heating cost would be for your next remodel, check out WarmlyYours’s Radiant Floor Heating Quote Builder. Does electric floor heat cost a lot per month? You can get a rough idea of how much it will cost to run a system by using the WarmlyYours Operating Cost Calculator. Once you’re ready to move forward with the installation, you can find a list of the contractors in your area that work with radiant floor heating here. Choose a professional to install your floor-heating system, tile, thermostat, etc. Or, do the work yourself if you’re so inclined, and only hire a professional electrician to finish the job by installing the thermostat. The option is yours.
Once you’ve started your project, WarmlyYours will still be there to help. Our technical experts are available by 24/7 at 800-875- to help you with any questions that arise during installation.
Still have questions about radiant floor heating? You’re not alone. Here are answers to some of the most common questions homeowners ask—from cost and compatibility to installation and energy efficiency. Whether you’re planning a new project or just exploring your options, this section will help you feel more confident moving forward.
The cost of installing electric radiant floor heating is influenced by several factors. Project size plays a key role, as larger areas often reduce the per-square-foot cost. Electric radiant floor heating typically ranges from $10 to $20 per square foot. Labor rates, usually between $75 and $100 per hour, and the complexity of installation—with new construction generally being less expensive than retrofits—also affect the overall cost. Get a quote here for an accurate estimate.
Yes—in well-insulated rooms, radiant heating can serve as the primary heat source. In larger or draftier areas, it may be used alongside a secondary heating system.
Yes. Radiant heat provides even warmth at lower operating temperatures, reducing energy loss. Features like zoned heating and programmable thermostats further improve efficiency and comfort.
Tile, stone, vinyl, laminate, and many engineered hardwoods are ideal. Thicker carpets or non-approved hardwoods may reduce performance or be incompatible with some systems.
Electric systems are DIY-friendly, especially in small rooms. Larger spaces or hydronic systems should be installed by professionals to ensure safety and optimal performance.
Most systems warm up in 30 to 90 minutes, depending on the subfloor, insulation, and floor covering. Tile and stone heat fastest, while carpeted surfaces may take longer.
Yes! Electric radiant heat is great for retrofits because of its slim profile. Hydronic systems can be installed too but usually require more construction.
Yes. Heated floors are considered a luxury upgrade that adds comfort, energy efficiency, and resale appeal—especially in bathrooms, kitchens, and basements.
Radiant floor heating offers a powerful combination of comfort, efficiency, and long-term value. Whether you’re renovating a bathroom, upgrading your kitchen, or building your dream home from the ground up, heated floors can transform the way your space feels—day in and day out.
Use our free Quote Builder Tool to get an instant estimate based on your room dimensions and flooring type. Or, if you’re not quite sure where to start, connect with one of our radiant heating experts—we’re here to help you design a system that’s perfect for your home.
There are many tubing installation options available for installing radiant floor heating. In fact, this is one of our most common questions. Depending on the application, you may have several different options to choose from. This page details many of our most popular radiant tubing installation practices including:
The concrete slab installation is one of the simplest and most efficient ways to install radiant heat. While it is simple, it is very important to do it correctly. If it is not, you can have a floor heating system that is inefficient, costly to operate, and may not work at all. Here are some general guidelines to follow. Keep in mind that these recommendations are general in nature and you should always consult your code official for proper installation.
On top of your compacted earth or sand, you should install a vapor barrier. 6 or 8-mil Visqueen plastic (polyethylene plastic) has always been the material of choice. Studies show that this may not be effective as other options. You should check with your code official for code compliance. This website is a good resource for why and how to install the vapor barrier.
Once the vapor barrier is in, you should insulate the slab from the earth. Extruded or expanded polystyrene (rigid blue or pink board) is the material of choice. Typically, we recommended 2″ but some states now require 3″ or R-15.
Some promote the use of thin sheets of foil/bubble or an insulating blanket. These products claim a high R-value but most of this comes from its reflective properties. You lose the reflective properties of the material once you pour concrete over it. Then, you are stuck with a 1/2″ of true insulation. This is a quick and easy product to install but in this case, quick and easy definitely isn’t the way to go.
Crete-heat is the name of one product that many of our customers use. This product has nubs on top to hold the tubing in place. All you have to do is walk the tubing in place, step it down between the nubs and keep going. There is no need for spending extra time bending over and tying the tubing to the mesh or rebar. Crete-heat has a built in vapor barrier and is tongue and groove so it snaps together. There is no need to tape any of the seams.
Since much of the heat loss in a concrete slab actually occurs on the outer edge, it is important that we insulate there as well. Here are a couple of details. The first shows what happens if only the side edge is to be insulated. The second depicts the proper way to insulate a concrete slab when used for radiant underfloor heating. Keep in mind that some will insulate the side edge all the way down to the footing.
For more details on insulating methods, please read our Design and Construction Suggestions Manual.
Once the insulation is in, the next step is to layout the radiant tubing. If you install the Crete-heat product then this part is easy. Simply step the tubing into the nubs. If you used traditional foam board then you still have a couple of options. Some will staple the tubing down to the foam using Pex staples and a special gun which makes the work go quickly. The only downfall is that the staples can be somewhat expensive.
Another option is to attach the tubing to the wire mesh or rebar using zip ties. This is the most common method because the zip ties are inexpensive and most are willing to sacrifice a little time if it means saving a lot of money.
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These are also called heat transfer plates or aluminum fins. A study conducted by Kansas State University some years ago showed that systems using heat transfer plates vs. systems that do not are able to transfer twice as many btu’s. The significance is that you can typically lower the water temperature and reduce cycle times which can lower your operational cost.
Radiantec also conducted our own plate study experiments and you can find the results here. The most cost effective solution is to install the thin heat transfer plates in continuous coverage. We did find that the thicker, extruded aluminum plates transferred about 6% more heat but at more than double the cost.
Ideally, the heat transfer plates should be spaced continuously but they don’t have to be. Our general rule of thumb is to space the aluminum plates continuously in carpeted rooms, bathrooms, and high heat loss areas such as great rooms. Space them about every 8″ or so in all other areas.
Insulation is usually put in after this (see next step) so if you can find a foil faced insulation with high enough R-value, you can forgo this product.
Many people ask us if it’s necessary to also install insulation below the radiant tubing, heat transfer plates, and reflective barrier. If you can only do this once because the ceiling will be finished then the answer is absolutely yes. The amount of insulation is dependent on what is above and below. If there is carpeting or a high heat loss area above then you should put in R-19. If not, you can probably get away with R-13 but R-19 is better. The type of insulation doesn’t really matter all that much.
If there is an unheated basement below then you should use R-19. Most people don’t mind if they lose a little bit of heat downward in this scenario. If the heat loss downward is entirely wasted to a crawl space, for example, then your insulation method should be extensive. You should try to get in a minimum of R-30. Some will insulate between the joists with fiberglass and then seal the entire underside with rigid foam.
If the ceiling will not be finished, some will wait and see how the system performs and then add the insulation after if necessary. What can happen if you don’t insulate? Since radiant heat will go in all directions, the heat will just as easily go downward. The basement will get too warm and you won’t get enough heat into the space above.
We get this question a lot because let’s face it, people want to save money. Aluminum is expensive. We get it! Radiantec considers itself to be an “energy efficiency” company. Everything we do and everything we quote is for the sole purpose of creating the most energy efficient system possible.
We also adhere to the “keep it simple” approach so we only quote components that we believe are truly necessary. This in turn will save you money every single day that you operate the heating system. So, in our opinion, it’s foolish to save a little bit of money up front and forgo an essential element that will save you money forever.
Will a radiant system without aluminum plates work? The best answer is “maybe.” If plates are not used then you are relying on air and the few locations where tubing is in contact with the floor to transfer the heat. The problem is, air is an insulator and Pex directly in contact with wood is a poor conductor. In order to make up for this poor heat transfer, the water temperature must be raised significantly. In some cases, as high as 180 degrees F.! Even then, on a cold day, the floor may not put out enough heat to heat the room if the home is older and not energy efficient.
In new construction with today’s well insulated structures, a system without plates will more than likely work. But, it won’t work as well or as efficiently as it could. Also, you may not be able to use a water heater as the heating source because the system requires much warmer water to make up for the poor heat transfer. In turn, your project may not be a great candidate for a solar hot water assist, either. What makes more sense, to install a system that can operate at lower temps (around 120-130 degrees F.) or to eliminate components that make you run the system at high temps (around 180 degrees F.)? It’s also easy to tell which system will cost less to operate.
We get calls on a daily basis from people with existing systems (not ours) that are looking to improve the performance. They complain of not getting enough heat on cold days and/or high energy costs. We’re thrilled when they call back later and rave about how well their system works after installing plates!
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The suspended slab radiant floor heating installation is sometimes used in new construction. It was once a common installation but we don’t see it used as much anymore. This method involves the radiant tubing being installed on top of the subfloor. Then, a 1 1/2″ slab is poured over the top. This slab is usually a lite-weight concrete mix or gypsum based material called “gypcrete” which seems to be the most common.
Typically, this is not a good retrofit possibility because existing homes were not engineered to withstand the added weight. Even lite-weight concrete can weigh 12-14 pounds per square foot for a 1 1/2″ pour.
Many people ask the question “how can I install radiant floor heating if I don’t have access to the floor from below?” One way is to go with a manufactured grooved board system that you can put down and simply lay the Pex in it. These products typically have a layer of aluminum on the surface for optimal heat transfer.
While these products work very well they all have one common fault: they are just too expensive for the average homeowner to even consider at prices of $8-$10 per square foot. This price doesn’t even include any of the radiant material.
Radiantec has come up with a practical alternative to these expensive products. If you are a competent do-it-yourselfer and don’t mind working with power tools then you can install a highly efficient radiant floor heating system on top of your existing floor for a fraction of the price of the manufactured panel systems.
The “plywood and plates” installation involves ripping 3/4″ plywood into strips 12″ wide and securing them to the subfloor. You will leave a groove just wide enough for the tubing and plate which will be roughly 3/4″.
Before the tubing is installed, an aluminum heat transfer plate is installed to help conduct heat through the floor. Now, the tubing can be installed and the finished flooring put in. If the floor covering will be soft, carpet or vinyl for example, then a thin layer of wood (called luan) should be installed. Most other hard flooring can be installed directly over the tubing and plates.
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