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One of the best ways to heat your backward pool is with a pool heat pump. It’s durable, energy-efficient and easy to maintain. But with so many pool heat pumps out there, how do you know which one is right for your pool? In this guide, we’ll show you what to look for in a pool heat pump, including size, temperature range and energy rating, and explain how three pool heat pumps compare. We also answer some frequently asked questions, such as how long they take to heat your pool and whether you should run them all day.
Like other pool equipment, it’s important to choose the right pool heat pump for your pool, climate, lifestyle and needs. Here are 9 factors you need to consider:
When buying a pool heat pump, there are two types to choose from: fixed output (also known as on/off) and inverter. While they work along the same lines – both draw warm air from the atmosphere to heat your pool – the biggest difference is how they transfer heat. For example, while a fixed output heat pump operates at 100 per cent capacity all the time, an inverter heat pump adjusts its speed to match the heat demand of the pool.
The result? An inverter pool heat pump is quieter and more energy-efficient than a fixed-output pool heat pump. So if you want to minimise noise and running costs, opt for an inverter heat pump. While they’re more expensive to buy, ongoing savings will offset purchase and installation costs.
A heat pump’s efficiency is measured by its coefficient of performance (COP). This is a ratio of the amount of energy produced against the amount of energy consumed. In general, the higher the COP rating, the lower the running costs. So when you’re choosing a heat pump, go for one with a high COP rating, like the Viron Inverter. With a COP of upto 13.57 (varies by model), it can reduce your energy consumption by 15–30 per cent, keeping operating costs low.
Top tip: The heat pump’s refrigerant (a fluid used for heat transfer) can also affect the COP rating. If available, choose a pool heat pump with R32 refrigerant. Not only does it speed up heating times compared to standard R410A refrigerant, but it can also lower carbon emissions and reduce your energy bills by an extra 10 per cent.
Size matters when it comes to pool heat pumps. If your pool is large or you live in a cold climate, bigger is usually better. However, if you have a small pool or garden space is limited, or you use a pool cover, a slim-line model like the Top Discharger Inverter may suit your needs. While it’s not as powerful as other AstralPool models, it provides quiet and efficient heating, and the vertical exhaust makes it perfect for tight spaces. However, to accurately size your pool heat pump, it’s best to use our online heat pump calculator or chat with your local pool shop.
Pool heat pumps are often exposed to extreme weather conditions, not to mention chlorine and other pool chemicals. That’s why it’s important to find a unit that can withstand these conditions. First, look for a pool heat pump with a reinforced plastic or aluminium alloy casing. This will ensure your heater lasts longer and continues to look good over the years.
Second, make sure it’s got a titanium heat exchanger. In addition to preventing corrosion from chlorine and other pool chemicals, titanium heat exchangers are almost indestructible. It’s why they have a long warranty that often outlasts the heat pump itself!
Pool heat pumps have a reputation for being noisy, which can be disruptive for young families or neighbours. Some can be as loud as 60 decibels (i.e. the sound of an air conditioner) or as quiet as 39 decibels (i.e. the hum of a refrigerator). Ultimately, the volume of your unit will depend on your brand, size, fan blades, motor and compressor. To keep noise to a minimum, choose a heat pump with levels between 40 and 50, such as the Eco Inverter Heat Pump.
Top tip: If your heater is louder than expected or near a bedroom window, reduce noise levels by using a sound-absorbing pad or planting a hedge to dampen the noise (with proper clearance, of course).
Check the temperature range of your unit to make sure it can handle cold temperatures in winter. If you live in a cold climate (hello, Tasmania!) and your pool heat pump isn’t designed to operate in freezing temperatures (e.g. minus 10°C), it might not activate, or worse, ice and frost may damage the unit.
Conversely, if you live in a hot climate, you may find that your water temperature is too warm for comfortable swimming. If that’s the case, choose a heat pump with both heating and cooling (much like a reverse-cycle air conditioner). This will help you turn your pool into a cool oasis in summer and a steamy sauna in winter.
Before splashing out on a pool heat pump, make sure it’s within your budget. Pool heat pumps can costs can vary depending on the brand, size and features. Comparatively, running costs are low compared to gas pool heaters. For example, a heat pump can cost $250–$750 to run per year, while gas heating can cost $500–$1,500 per year – that’s a saving of roughly 50 per cent!
Plus, pool heat pumps have a lifespan of about 15–20 years (with proper use and maintenance), compared to 5–10 years for gas heaters. So while you pay more upfront, you could save thousands in replacement costs over the life of your pool.
When buying a pool heat pump, look for a recognised brand with a long warranty period – and don’t forget to read the fine print. Some brands may have a 25-year warranty on the heat exchanger and a 3-year warranty on the compressor. Others may have 5 years on both. Make sure the warranty period is long so you’re not out of pocket if something goes wrong. And don’t forget to check out online reviews to see how products and customer service compare across brands.
Some pool heat pumps come with additional features, like Wi-Fi or Bluetooth connectivity. This means you can monitor water temperature or turn the heat pump off with your – even when you’re not at home. Another feature to look out for is automation capability. This allows you to sync your unit to an automation system like Viron Connect – so you never come home to a cold pool!
Now that you know what to look for, let’s compare three AstralPool pool heat pumps: the Eco Inverter, Viron Inverter and Top Discharger Inverter. While these heat pumps are all environmentally friendly, built for the Australian environment, whisper-quiet and Wi-Fi compatible, some differences set them apart. Here’s a quick comparison guide:
Eco Inverter
Viron Inverter
Top Discharge Inverter
COP
10
12.43–13.57
4.55–5.66
Refrigerant
R32
R32
R410A
Heat exchanger
Titanium
Titanium
Titanium
Noise
39–53 dB
40–58 dB
44–60 dB
Temperature Range (ambient)
-5–43°C
-15–43°C
-15–43°C
Wi-Fi
Optional
Included
Included
Exhaust
Horizontal
Horizontal
Vertical
Size (min.)
x 403 x 603 mm
950 x 400 x 620 mm
723 x 835 x 865 mm
Viron Connect Compatible
No
No – iHP90, iHP120, iHP170
Yes – iHP195, iHP242, iHP283
Yes
Warranty
5 yrs – compressor
5 yrs – heat exchanger
5 yrs – compressor
5 yrs – heat exchanger
5 yrs – compressor
5 yrs – heat exchanger
FAQs
Unlike a gas or electric pool heater, a pool heat pump doesn’t actually generate heat. Instead, a fan draws warm air into the unit’s evaporator coils, heating up the liquid refrigerant and turning it into a gas. The gas then passes through a compressor, where it gets heated up further before moving to the heat exchanger and heating up your pool water. As the water returns to your pool, the gas inside the compressor reverts to a liquid and starts the process all over again. For more, see our Ultimate Guide to Pool Heat Pumps.
When you first install a pool heat pump, it can take 24–72 hours to heat your pool water, depending on the dimensions of your pool, heat pump size, climate, water temperature (both starting and final) and whether you use a pool cover. Make sure you allow plenty of heating time if you’re entertaining friends or the kids are going to be on school holidays.
In general, pool heat pumps have a thermostat that shuts off when the target temperature is reached, then turns on again when the temperature drops. This helps the heat pump conserve energy without allowing the temperature to drop too dramatically. If you’re not planning to swim for a few weeks, you can turn off the heat pump and continue running your pump as normal.
However, if you swim often, it’s better to run the heat pump at a lower temperature even when you’re not in the pool. If you normally heat your pool to 28°C, bring it down to 23–25°C. This means you’ll be able to raise the temperature quickly if you want to take a dip.
Top tip: It’s faster and more energy-efficient to increase the water temperature than to heat up a cold pool.
A pool heat pump is one of the most energy-efficient ways to heat your pool. But before you splash, consider factors like COP rating, size, durability, noise levels, operating temperatures, price, warranty and additional features. This will ensure your pool heat pump works optimally and matches your lifestyle and needs. If you’re still not sure which AstralPool heat pump is right for you, here’s a quick guide:
Choose an Eco Inverter Heat Pump if:
Choose a Viron Inverter Heat Pump if:
Choose a Top Discharge Inverter Heat Pump if:
To see examples of heat pumps installed correctly, please see our Photo Gallery
Most of our pool heat pumps state the required water flow rate on their specifications table. If the water flow rate is too low, then the water in the heat pump will overheat and the heat pump will switch off.
Check the water flow rate from your pool pump and through your filter to ensure that it is high enough for your pool heat pump.
Note that there is a maximum possible flow through each size of pool pipe regardless of the power of your pump. For larger heat pumps it may not be possible to achieve sufficient water flow through small pipes (eg 1.5″ pipes). Please contact us for advice on this.
We sell water flow meters that will show you the flow rate through your pipes.
See our “Accessories” section
You should also regularly backwash your pool filter to ensure that the water flow rate remains at an adequate level.
The base for the heat pump should be level and sound. You can use either a concrete base, paving slabs laid on sand or timber decking.
The vibration from the heat pump will be fairly minimal and will not disturb the paving slabs.
The heat pump can be installed above or below water level. The only proviso is that the pool circulation pump is powerful enough to deliver the water flow rate that the heat pump needs to operate.
For more information, please visit LAILEY & COATES.
We also sell mounting feet and lightweight slabs to mount the heat pump on. These help to raise the heat pump off the ground and also reduce noise and vibration
While the heat pump is operating, it is normal for condensation water to drip from it – particularly in humid conditions. You should consider the condensate water that will come from the unit in the base design as the amount of water can be considerable and cause a pool of water to form. For example if the unit is mounted on timber decking, holes can be made in the decking to allow the condensate water to drain away and not cause rotting to the timber.
Some heat pumps have a water outlet tube that will channel the condensate water away, or a piece of hose can be attached to it to divert the water to a specific location.
Some customers mistakenly think that the heat pump has a leak when in fact the water coming from the heat pump is normal condensation
Before purchasing a pool heat pump, you should check the running current and peak current stated on the listing for your desired model.
Ensure that your electrical supply is adequate to support the running and startup currents for the unit.
It is normally recommended to run a dedicated cable back to your electrical consumer unit for the heat pump and install a dedicated breaker for the heat pump.
Most heat pumps will have a higher electrical current demand when they start. This only lasts for a millisecond or so while the compressor starts and the current then reverts to the normal running current for the unit.
The size of circuit breaker required is normally stated on the listing for each heat pump and is normally slightly larger than the startup current.
You would normally use a type “D” circuit breaker (fuse) with your heat pump. The type “D” circuit breaker allows for the higher current at startup (as the compressor starts) without tripping the breaker.
If you have a very “sensitive” electrical supply, then some heat pumps have an optional (or built in) “soft-start” option. The soft-start option “eases” in the startup current up to the running current to avoid a power spike on startup.
The soft-start kit/option is normally only required for installations using a large single phase heat pump (eg 30kw) with a limited or sensitive electrical supply. In extreme situations, the house lights may flicker or the circuit breaker trips when the heat pump starts up. The soft-start kit helps to prevent this.
The soft-start option is not normally required in the UK, or on small heat pumps or on 3-phase heat pumps. Please contact us for further information.
We sell a third-party soft start module that can be added to virtually any heat pump. This is listed under our “Accessories” section
Armoured cable is normally used to supply the heat pump. This is to prevent the cable from being accidentally damaged (eg by digging through it with a spade)
The size (thickness) of the cable required depends on the length of cable used. A longer cable run will require a thicker cable due to the increased resistance of the long cable.
The armoured cable should be run to a rotary isolator switch which should be located within 1-meter of the heat pump to allow the power to be easily killed to the heat pump
The electrical work should be completed by a qualified electrician who can calculate the cable size required.
The heat pump must also be properly earthed.
As the heat pump is outdoors, the electrical circuit should also be protected by an RCD
Most properties have a single-phase electrical supply. 3-phase electrical supply is normally only found on larger properties or on commercial installations. If you are not sure, you probably have a single phase electrical supply, but ask your electrician to confirm this for you.
Single phase supplies operate at around 230-240v in the UK and have one live wire, neutral and earth and are the most common type of power in domestic properties.
Larger properties may have a 3-phase power supply. This typically operates around 380-415v and uses three live wires, a neutral and earth wires.
Note that most 3-phase installations are 380v-415v, however in France it is possible to find both 380v-415v and some older 220v 3-phase supplies, so please check which type you have before ordering.
All of our heat pumps are manufactured to work with 50hz electrical supplies (which are used throughout Europe)
Note that in the USA, they use a 60hz electrical supply. USA specification heat pumps will not work in the UK or Europe. All of our heat pumps are made to use a 50hz electrical supply.
We can supply an electrical connection box with a built in timer for your pool pump – see our “Accessories” section
The electrical control boxes can be custom designed to your requirements. Please contact us for a quote.
It is easy to add a heat pump to an existing pool pipework system.
First check to see what size of pipes you have.
In the UK, these are normally 1.5″ or 2″ pipes. In Europe, 50mm is more common. Check the writing stamped on your existing pipes and elbows to see which size you have. Do not just measure the external diameter of the pipes or fittings as this is often different to the size required and you may accidentally order the wrong size pipe and pipe fittings !
eg 1.5″ pool pipe measures approx 1.9″ external diameter (the 1.5″ refers to the internal diameter of the pipes for imperial sizes and the external diameter for metric sizes)
Once you know the existing pipe size that you have, you will know what size connectors and elbows you will need.
In the UK 1.5″ pipes are the most common and 50mm in Europe.
Please see our Accessories section for a catalogue of pipe fittings.
If you have an existing pool heater eg gas or oil boiler, then if it still works ok, we recommend that you leave it in place and put the heat pump in line with the existing boiler.
This will allow you to run both the heat pump and boiler if required for a rapid pool heat up. The old heater can also help to supplement the heat from your heat pump in very cold weather to help extend the swimming season.
Where possible the water should run through the heat pump first and then the existing heater so that the heat pump does most of the heating work. The thermostat on the existing heater (eg gas boiler) can be set lower than the heat pump so that the existing heater will only operate if required.
There are only two pipes to the heat pump – a “flow” and a “return” pipe.
We recommend that you install a “bypass” arrangement with your heat pump
The bypass is a series of 3-valves. These allow you to isolate the heat pump to prevent water flowing through it.
A bypass can also allow the water flow rate to be adjusted to achieve the optimum performance for the heat pump. We are happy to advise on how to adjust the flow rate accordingly depending on the make and model of heat pump used.
Generally, you should aim for a difference between water in and water out temperatures of around 1-2 degrees
We sell bypass kits under our Accessories section
This is required in winter when you need to drain all water from the heat pump to prevent damage by freezing, however you may have a frost stat on your pool pump and may wish to continue to circulate the water round your pool pipes.
The bypass setup also allows you to adjust the water flow rate passing though our heat pump. By slghtly opening the bypass valve, you can reduce the water flow through the heat pump.
You must not allow water to freeze inside the heat pump during winter as this can crack the heat exchanger and frost/freezing damage is generally not covered by the manufacturer’s warranty. We sell a range of winter covers for pool heat pumps to protect your unit – see our Accessories section
The pipes to and from the heat pump can be insulated to help reduce heat loss.
The heat pump is normally installed as the last item in the water flow before the water returns to the pool, ie after the filter.
The only exception to this is if you have a chlorination unit in which case this should be the last item before the water returns to the pool so that concentrated chlorine does not go through the heat pump as this could cause premature corrosion to the heat exchanger.
The heat pump can be installed alongside any existing heater that you have (eg gas heater). This allows you to use the gas heater as well as the heat pump if required either to rapidly heat up the pool or if the air temperature is too cold to run the heat pump efficiently eg at the and of the swimming season.
Try to have the water going through the heat pump first and then the gas/oil heater so that the heat pump does most of the heating work and the existing boiler only needs to “top-up” the temperature
For large pools, it is possible to run two heat pumps together
or even larger pools can use four heat pumps
Multiple heat pumps can be plumbed in series or in parallel. Please contact us for advice on the best method to use for your situation.
Where possible a heat pump should always be installed outdoors as they need a constant supply of fresh air to operate and extract the heat from. However it is possible to install some models inside the plant room. For vertical fan models, ducting can be constructed to to vent the expelled air out through the wall of the building.
For horizontal fan models, they can be placed up against the wall and a hole cut through the wall in line with the fan to allow the expelled air to escape to the outside.
Recirculation of the expelled air back into the heat pump must be avoided.
For indoor installations, it is also necessary to allow air to enter the pump house. A vented door or grille should be installed at the opposite side of the pump house which is sufficiently large to allow fresh air to enter the room at the same rate that it is leaving the room.
For indoor pools, placing the heat pump inside the pool building can help to dehumidify the air by drawing fresh air into the pool room and using the heat pump to expel the humid air.
The disadvantage of this arrangement is that the air temperature inside the pool room will soon be reduced to the same as the outside air temperature. For indoor pools, this may not be desirable and some sort of air heating may then be required negating the benefit of locating the heat pump indoors.
Ducting of a vertical fan heat pump to outdoorsInstallation of a horizontal fan heat pump in a plant roomIndoor pools have different requirements to outdoor pools, the main difference being the need to dehumidify the moist air and also to heat the air in winter.
Normally for indoor pools, the air temperature should be 1 degree warmer than the pool water. eg pool water = 28c, air temp = 29c.
For indoor pools, we do sell an all in one unit from Heatstar or Calorex that provides air heating, air dehumidification, fresh air inlet and pool water heating. Please contact us for details.
There are two main options for indoor pools:-
We can also design a system which is powered by an domestic type air source heat pump, feeding a buffer tank
We offer an indoor pool design service to help select and specify all of the equipment for indoor pools
See our Indoor Pools page for more information
Our heat pumps can also be installed on hot tubs and swim spas.
Using a heat pump will normally give greatly reduced running costs compared to an electric heater and the use of heat pump on spas and hot tubs is becoming increasingly popular.
The desired water temperature can be set to a maximum of +40c
The heat pump is simply plumbed into the existing spa circuit
We recommend that the existing electric heater is retained as a backup heater to the heat pump for extremely cold (sub-zero) air temperatures
Ideally the water should flow through the heat pump first and then the electric heater second.
Please contact us if you would like any advice on incorporating a heat pump onto a hot tub or swim spa.
Below are some pictures taken from our Photo Gallery of installations made using heat pumps supplied by HeatPumps4Pools
Heat Perfector 20kw Installation in Essex UK. Unit installed on paving slabs. Pipework insulated. Existing pipework extended out of poolhouse to heat pump.Plumbing Arrangement – note bypass valve system to allow the unit to be isolated and drained down in the winterHeat Siphon unit installed in the South of France in .Heat Perfector 32kw unitTo see other installation examples, please see our Photo Gallery
For further pool heat pump installation tips, please also see our FAQ page
We hope you found these pool heat pump installation tips useful
We offer a full installation service for pool heat pumps using our fully qualified engineers.
Our engineers are qualified electricians and experienced heat pump engineers that will install your heat pump in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.
We can install heat pumps throughout most areas of the UK
Please contact us for an installation quotation
If you have any queries on installing your heat pump, then please contact us at
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If you are looking for more details, kindly visit side discharge pool heat pump.