PVC Drip Irrigation is an inexpensive and easy-to-build method for watering your backyard garden.  After adding a PVC drip irrigation system to your garden you can expect stronger vegetable plants, fewer weeds, and a lower water bill!

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Building your own PVC Drip Irrigation System

Let me start out this post by strongly stating my opinion about drip irrigation systems.  I think some type of drip irrigation system is the ONLY way to water a garden of any size.  In fact, I even know market growers with “gardens” over an acre in size that use drip systems.

There are several reasons I feel so strongly about drip systems.  First, they use a ton less water.  Drip systems deliver water directly to the plants and don’t water all the surrounding empty space so they save water.  Second, because you are only watering your plants, you are by default not watering weeds.  This makes a big difference in the amount of work you have to do weeding your garden.  Third, they are much more flexible in allowing you to change the configuration of your garden each year.

There are really 3 types of drip systems each has its own advantages & disadvantages:

1. Kit systems that use distribution systems and tubing for individual plants.
2. Soaker Hoses
3. PVC Drip Irrigation systems

Kit systems are great for bigger plants. 

You can run the tubing to each tomato or squash and get the water right where you want it.  But kit systems are very expensive; to do a garden my size would take hundreds of dollars.

Soaker hoses are great for row crops

But they waste some water when you are dealing with larger individual plants.  They are also very expensive as you have to buy a lot of hoses to water a big garden.

PVC drip irrigation systems are the perfect solution. 

You can deal with larger plants and row crops based on the number of holes you drill in the pipes.  They are cheaper to build for larger gardens.  PVC systems can also be very flexible.  The one disadvantage is the initial setup (the first year) can take a while because you have to drill a lot of holes in the pipe. So let’s take a look at my PVC drip irrigation system:

Here’s a shot of it covering my whole garden.  Notice it works for both the row crops like carrots, peas, beans, potatoes, and corn.  PVC Drip Irrigation also works perfectly for larger crops like tomatoes and squash.

Here’s a shot of the drip system we use at our second “borrowed” garden.  Again it works perfectly for all the row crops we grow here. The first-time setup is easy but time-consuming. The biggest time commitment comes from having to drill hundreds of holes in the pipe.  But after the first year set up and takedown of the system is quick and easy!

To get started you need pipe, several connectors, elbows and tees, a drill with a couple of small drill bits, and something to cut the pipe (a PVC pipe cutter or just a hacksaw).

What size of pipe should you use?

So let’s talk pipe first.  The first PVC system I set up I used ½ inch PVC pipe.  The ½ inch pipe works great for shorter lengths, but when I have to cover big long rows of 20 feet or more they don’t work quite as well.

I have now slowly started converting all my long row crops to ¾ inch pipe.  Those pipes hold more water so the water seems to get to the end of the pipe a little better.  So for a garden like mine, if I were to do it all over again I would use all ¾ inch pipes.  If you are dealing with shorter beds, like 4 x 8-foot beds the ½ inch pipe will be fine.

For row crops, I drill a 1/16 inch hole in the pipe every 6 inches.  The water from each hole soaks out about 3 inches from the center so each hole’s water meets in the middle.

For larger crops, I drill maybe 1 or 2 slightly larger holes maybe 1/8 inch right where the base of the plant is.  Then when I put in my plants I form a small basin of soil around the plant to help keep the water right around the base.  Then I simply lay out my watering system BEFORE I plant each year, then I know where to put the plants so they will have a water hole close by.

Most of the time I will use 2 or 3 rows of pipe in my 4-foot beds.  The number really depends on the crops I am growing.  So I use some 90-degree elbows and 3 sided tee’s to create a little distribution system at the top of the bed as you see in the picture above. DO NOT under any circumstance glue the pipes together.  This will be a low-pressure system and the pipes will stay together WITHOUT GLUE.  If you glue the pipe together then you lose the ability to move pipes around to deal with different planting configurations.

For longer stretches of pipe, I simply join the pipe with a coupling piece. Then I, of course, add an end plug on one end.

Getting Water to your System.

You can go as simple or complicated as you want to get the water into the pipes.  I simply have this little connector that attaches to my hose and fits over the end of the pipe.  The hose is then moved from bed to bed with the hose.  I’ve found that with my longer 25-foot beds I can only water one bed at a time and still have the right amount of pressure.

You can also be more complicated and add a mainline that connects up to each bed and has a valve that you can turn on at each bed.  The mainline would be under more pressure so you may want to glue those pipes.  Or you could even be really fancy and add a filter system and an electronic valve box and timers.  The sky is the limit!! I like having my system attached to a hose bib.  That way I can control the amount of water pressure using the bib.

You want just enough water running through the pipes for it to get to the end and drip or ooze out of the pipe.  If you have the water pressure up too high the water will spray out of the pipes with too much force.  That will drill holes in the ground and possibly damage plants.  Also, too much pressure tends to mean the water will be coming out too fast and it will run off the beds instead of soaking into the soil.

How much does it cost?

PVC pipe is cheap, over the years I have maybe spent $75 to $100 to get my system to where it is now.  It waters 100% of my garden.  Since going away from sprinklers and flood irrigation the amount of time we spend weeding the garden has also gone way down.  Especially in the summer when there is no rain in the garden to sprout the weed seeds.

If you want to learn more, please visit our website Lonsin.

One Warning-PVC systems are not good for Hills!

Before we finish up let me give you one warning.  PVC Drip Irrigation is not the ideal system to use if your garden beds have an extreme slope.  My beds are pretty flat, there is a bit of a slope to the east in my garden but it is very minor.  If your garden beds have an extreme slope the PVC system may not work for you.

If that is the case I would suggest buying only a few pipes for an experiment. Maybe spend $10 to see if it will work in your garden, before going crazy and buying enough pipe for the whole thing.  The problem with slopes is getting even water pressure.  If your slope is too severe you may have too much pressure at the bottom of the slope and none at the top!  So test it out in your garden before you spend a lot of money!

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The Ultimate Guide to Chicken Wire: Straight from EasyMerchant

Introduction and Understanding Chicken Wire

The Ultimate Guide to Chicken Wire

Hello, garden enthusiasts and DIY’ers! Today, we’re diving deep into the versatile world of chicken wire. Whether you’re a seasoned landscaper or just starting out, this guide is packed with everything you need to know about chicken wire, chicken wire mesh, and chicken wire fence. We’ll talk about what it is, what it does, how much it should cost and more.

What is Chicken Wire?

Chicken wire, commonly known as “chicken wire mesh”, is a woven mesh predominantly crafted from galvanised steel wire. Its signature hexagonal weave pattern isn’t just a design choice; it’ adds to the balance of flexibility and strength inherent in this shape. This design ensures that the mesh is resistant to pressure from all angles, making it both durable and versatile.

Historically, chicken wire emerged as a practical solution for poultry farming, providing an economical means to keep chickens contained. However, its utility quickly transcended its initial purpose. Gardeners began to see its potential as a lightweight protective barrier for plants, while artists and craft enthusiasts appreciated its malleability for creative projects. In construction, it found a place as a reinforcement layer, lending stability to structures like plaster walls.

Modern iterations of chicken wire have evolved to include various coatings and materials, such as PVC for added durability or even stainless steel and copper for specific applications. From its humble beginnings in poultry containment, chicken wire has woven its way into a multitude of different practical uses, proving its enduring value and adaptability.

The Rise of the Chicken Wire Fence

The chicken wire fence, a more robust variant of the classic chicken wire mesh, is designed for more demanding applications. While it can certainly keep your chickens in check, it’s also fantastic for creating garden partitions, protecting vegetable patches from pests, and even crafting garden decorations. Its durability ensures it stands the test of time and the elements.

Procurement and Practical Tips:

Where to Buy Chicken Wire?

If you’re in the market for top-quality chicken wire, look no further than EasyMerchant’s chicken wire mesh product page. We stock a range of different sizes of chicken wire and chicken wire fence options to cater to every need. Plus, our user-friendly website ensures a hassle-free shopping experience, while offering you the best possible prices.

How to Cut Chicken Wire:

Cutting chicken wire might seem straightforward, but doing it correctly ensures safety and precision. Here’s an in-depth guide to help you master the art of cutting chicken wire:

1. Preparation:
   • Materials: Before you begin, gather all the necessary materials. This includes the chicken wire roll, safety gloves, wire cutters or tin snips, a tape measure, a marker or chalk, and safety goggles.
   • Safety First: Always wear gloves when handling chicken wire to prevent cuts. The edges of the wire can be sharp, and gloves will provide a protective barrier. Safety goggles are also essential to shield your eyes from any small wire fragments that might fly up during the cutting process.
2. Measurement:
   • Determine Dimensions: Decide on the length and width of the chicken wire piece you need. This will largely depend on your project requirements.
   • Mark the Wire: Roll out the chicken wire on a flat, stable surface. Using a tape measure and marker or chalk, mark the dimensions on the chicken wire. Ensure your markings are clear and visible.
3. Cutting Process:
   • Starting Point: Begin at one end of your marked section. It’s usually easier to start at an edge rather than the middle.
   • Using Wire Cutters: Grip the wire cutter’s handles firmly. Place the cutter blades around the wire where you want to make the cut, ensuring you’re cutting as close to a junction in the hexagonal design as possible. This minimises sharp edges.
   • Continuous Cutting: Continue cutting along your marked lines, ensuring the chicken wire mesh remains flat and taut. This will make the cutting process smoother and more accurate.
   • Tin Snips: If you’re using tin snips, the process is similar. Tin snips can cover a larger area and might be more efficient for longer cuts.
4. Post-Cutting:
   • Check Edges: After cutting, run your gloved hand along the edges to check for any sharp protruding wires.
   • Fold Sharp Ends: If you find any sharp ends, use pliers to fold them back or twist them onto the main body of the wire. This ensures safety during subsequent handling.
   • Flatten the Wire: Chicken wire tends to curl up after being cut, especially if it was rolled. Lay it flat and use your hands or a heavy object to flatten it out, making it easier to work with for your project.
5. Storage:
   • Roll Excess Wire: If you have leftover chicken wire, roll it up neatly for storage. Ensure the cut edges are on the inside of the roll to prevent accidental injury when handling next time.
   • Label: If you have various types or sizes of chicken wire, it’s a good practice to label them. This way, you can easily identify them for future projects.
6. Additional Tips:
   • Work in a Well-Lit Area: Good lighting ensures accuracy and safety.
   • Take Breaks: If you’re cutting a large amount of chicken wire, take breaks to prevent hand fatigue.
   • Safety Over Speed: Always prioritise safety over speed. Ensure each cut is deliberate and controlled.

Attachment Techniques and Costing:

How to Attach Chicken Wire to a Brick Wall:

Attaching chicken wire to a brick wall might seem daunting at first, but with the right tools and techniques, it’s a straightforward process. Here’s a step-by-step guide to ensure a secure and neat attachment:

1. Preparation:
   • Materials: Before you begin, gather all the necessary materials. This includes the chicken wire mesh, U-shaped staples or masonry nails, a hammer, wire cutters, gloves, a tape measure, and a marker.
   • Safety: Always wear protective gloves when handling chicken wire to prevent cuts or scrapes. Safety goggles are also recommended to protect your eyes from any flying debris when hammering.
2. Measurement and Cutting:
   • Measure the Area: Using a tape measure, determine the height and width of the area on the brick wall where you want to attach the chicken wire.
   • Mark and Cut the Wire: Roll out the chicken wire mesh on a flat surface. Based on your measurements, mark the required dimensions on the mesh. Using wire cutters, cut the chicken wire, ensuring you leave a little extra on each side for adjustments.
3. Positioning the Chicken Wire:
   • Align the Wire: Hold the chicken wire against the brick wall, ensuring it’s taut and aligned correctly. It’s helpful to have another person assist you in holding the wire in place.
   • Temporary Fixing: To keep the wire in position, you can temporarily fix it at the top corners using U-shaped staples or masonry nails.
4. Securing the Chicken Wire:
   • U-Shaped Staples: These are ideal for attaching chicken wire to brick walls. Starting from one corner, hammer the U-shaped staples into the mortar joints (the horizontal gaps between bricks) at regular intervals, ensuring the wire is pulled taut as you go. The mortar joints are softer than the bricks, making it easier to secure the staples.
   • Masonry Nails: If you don’t have U-shaped staples, masonry nails can also do the trick. However, they require a bit more effort. Position the chicken wire against the wall and hammer the nails through the wire and into the mortar joints.
5. Adjustments and Finishing:
   • Trim Excess Wire: Once the chicken wire is securely attached, use wire cutters to trim any excess wire from the sides.
   • Fold Sharp Edges: If there are any sharp edges or protruding wires, fold them back using pliers to ensure safety and a neat appearance.
6. Additional Tips:
   • For Added Stability: If the area is particularly large or you’re concerned about the weight of items that might be placed against the chicken wire (like climbing plants), consider adding horizontal wooden battens to the wall. Attach the chicken wire to these battens for added stability.
   • Regular Checks: Periodically check the chicken wire’s attachment points, especially after extreme weather conditions, to ensure it remains securely in place.

How to Attach Chicken Wire to a Hedge:

Securing chicken wire to a hedge can be a fantastic way to provide added structure, protect the hedge from pests, or even support climbing plants. Here’s a detailed step-by-step guide to ensure a secure and effective attachment:

1. Preparation:
   • Materials: Gather all the necessary materials. This includes the chicken wire mesh, garden stakes. round fence posts, fencing pins, garden ties or twine, wire cutters, gloves, a tape measure, and a rubber mallet or hammer.
   • Safety: Always wear gloves when handling chicken wire to avoid potential cuts. If you’re using a rubber mallet or hammer, safety goggles can protect your eyes from any flying debris.
2. Measurement and Cutting:
   • Measure the Hedge: Using a tape measure, determine the height and length of the hedge section you wish to cover.
   • Mark and Cut the Wire: Roll out the chicken wire mesh on a flat surface. Based on your measurements, mark the required dimensions on the mesh. Using wire cutters, cut the chicken wire, ensuring you leave a bit extra on each side for adjustments and overlaps.
3. Positioning the Chicken Wire:
   • Align with Hedge: Hold the chicken wire against the hedge, ensuring it aligns correctly from top to bottom. If you have someone to assist, it can make this step easier.
   • Consider the Growth: Remember, hedges grow. Ensure the wire isn’t too tight against the hedge, allowing some room for growth.
4. Securing the Chicken Wire:
   • Garden Stakes or Poles: These will be used to support the chicken wire. Push the stakes into the ground at regular intervals along the length of the hedge. The exact distance between stakes can vary, but every 1 to 2 metres is a good rule of thumb.
   • Attach the Wire: Starting at one end, secure the chicken wire to the first stake using garden ties, cable ties or twine. Make sure it’s taut but not overly tight. Continue attaching the chicken wire to each stake, ensuring it remains taut throughout.
   • Ground Anchoring: For added stability, especially in windy areas, you can use Steel U Pins or pegs at the base of the chicken wire, pushing them into the soil to hold the wire in place.
5. Adjustments and Finishing:
   • Trim Excess Wire: Once the chicken wire is securely attached, use wire cutters to trim any excess wire from the top or sides.
   • Secure Loose Ends: If there are any sharp edges or protruding wires, fold them back using pliers or secure them with garden ties to ensure safety and a neat appearance.
6. Additional Tips:
   • For Climbing Plants: If you’re using the chicken wire to support climbing plants on the hedge, ensure the mesh’s holes are large enough for the plants to weave through but not so large that they can’t get adequate support.
   • Maintenance: Periodically check the chicken wire’s attachment points, especially after extreme weather conditions, to ensure it remains securely in place. Over time, as the hedge grows, you might need to adjust or expand the chicken wire.

How Much is Chicken Wire?

Chicken wire is cost-effective, but prices can vary based on size, material, and where you purchase it. For a transparent pricing structure and top-quality chicken wire mesh, chicken wire mesh product page is the place to go. We offer options for every budget, ensuring you get value for money.

As a guide, it costs around £2 per square metre, but it depends on the gauge and size you require.

Advanced Uses and Conclusion:

Beyond the Basics: Creative Uses for Chicken Wire

The versatility of chicken wire means its uses are limited only by imagination. From crafting garden sculptures to creating decorative partitions, chicken wire is a boon for creative minds. It’s also great for making compost bins, protecting seedlings, or even crafting DIY garden lanterns.

Conclusion

Chicken wire, with its myriad uses, is a must-have for anyone serious about gardening or DIY projects. Its versatility, durability, and cost-effectiveness make it a favourite.

If you would prefer a plastic coated wire fencing product we also offer these with three options on aperture size – Border Fencing – PVC-Coated Wire in 75mm x 100mm, PVC Coated Welded Wire Mesh in 25mm square and 50mm square. We also have a handy blog on How to Use Plastic Coated Wire Fencing in Your Garden!

As you embark on your gardening adventures, remember that we’re here to support you every step of the way. Happy gardening, and always remember, for any queries or needs, we’re just a click away!

The company is the world’s best Square PVC Water Pipe for Poultry supplier. We are your one-stop shop for all needs. Our staff are highly-specialized and will help you find the product you need.

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