Trying to figure out which metal building company is the best for the money. Including financing, and installation. I'm now retired at 55 by disability. I can do a little but I have to take it easy, so I been wanting a small garage with room for a lift. I will be staring dirt work soon, and have a guy ready to do the concrete work. What i need is recommendations on a metal building supplier/ installer that also does financing. I have a limited amount of cash to work with so financing is a must. The biggest I can afford is the plan. I'm hoping to have enough room for a 30 deep by 40 long. Two 10 x 10 doors in the front with a man door on the side. Any help would be appreciated.
You should start with a basic plan for the building that you can send to potential building suppliers. Depending on the type of metal building you go with you are probably in the 25k-40k price range but that is only the start. You won’t know what you will spend on dirt and concrete until you know what type of building you are buying.
I always encourage that you try to find a local supplier and that brings up the subject of dealers and brokers. When you start looking on the internet at slick websites you will most likely, not always, be looking at brokers who very commonly work on a 40% markup and don’t actually make anything but a sale. They sell your job to the lowest bidder and you hope that you get what you pay for. Dealers represent specific manufacturers that they have built a relationship with and will hopefully stand behind their product. I can usually meet or beat internet pricing. They usually can do a turnkey project or can sell the building and include erecting if you like. They will also be familiar with local soil conditions and code requirements.
All that being said I would highly discourage buying from a building company that offers financing. Generally you will pay stupid high interest and the loan might be sold three times by the time the building is delivered. Financing is a hook to sell you product. I would suggest that once you have a handle on costs that you go to a lender to finance all or part of the project.
Best of luck. Be patient and be prepared to downsize to get into the budget you have in mind. PM me if you want some more specific information.
Mueller has a good tool for building configuration (red iron). They are typically a little "higher" than competitors in my area on the price of the "kit" - but they also make it right and there are 3 locations within 100 miles.
Here, there is no manufacturer that is actually doing the installs. It's 3 things:
- Kit manufacturer (steel)
- Kit assembling crew (3rd party)
- Concrete guy / Site clearing
You can have it wrapped up by a GC, but he's likely doing the 3 things above and adding margin. Sometimes that's worth it if he's reliable and you have one ass to kick, but it's unlikely that you'll ever get more out of a GC than what their margin is.
OP, Please do an extensive search on this site to see all the issues (to include myself) have had with metal buildings that were COMPLETELY avoidable but I just didnt know. One HUGE issue is the companies tell you to make the slab 1 foot wider and longer than the building, do not do this. Also pay for the 12g tubing, 26g r panels, and the vertical studs to be 4' on center instead of the standard 5' on center. Dont pay for the insulation they provide as its very expensive for what you get and eventually sags/fails. My last quick tip would be to play around with the 3D builder a TON and see what you can get for your money. I used alansfactoryoutlet.com to buld mine. The orientation of the doors on the eave vs gable end can make a large difference in price, as well as expanding the size on the gable vs eave ends. I would recommend building what you want, taking a screen shot or printing it out, then do it again ad again and again. take the time to pick what you want within your budget, then go back and rebuild it and expand it just a little bit. You'll see what I mean by it being cheaper to go just a little wider or longer at this stage instead of later on downt he road! Good luck and if you have any questions please ask!
While I understand and agree with all above. I am happy with my square tube building. Even having the slab extend 6” around the building has it’s advantages (water tight is not one of them), but if has made grading around the perimeter with a tractor a lot easier. The sales guy mentioned some Z flashing to seal it, but the factory installers did not speak english so I did not try to ask about it.
Since I have no plans to air condition I put up a foil radiant barrier on the ceiling and the temps stay ambient.
I used a local shed company Mcville sheds to build our metal garage/shop. They are located in Collinsville, Va just west of Martinsville, Va. I used Alans website to do a build & price so I knew what to expect pricewise. My wife & I sat down with them & priced out what I wanted 24'x25' w/10' walls w/square tube beams. He was very good to deal with, he did the site prep & had a local company pour the concrete slab. I did not use their insulation package, we had the building insulation done with spray foam by a local company.
M.C. ville Sheds can connect you with just the right storage shed for your needs. Call our office in Collinsville, VA today at (276) 734-.
I used a local shed company Mcville sheds to build our metal garage/shop. They are located in Collinsville, Va just west of Martinsville, Va. I used Alans website to do a build & price so I knew what to expect pricewise. My wife & I sat down with them & priced out what I wanted 24'x25' w/10' walls w/square tube beams. He was very good to deal with, he did the site prep & had a local company pour the concrete slab. I did not use their insulation package, we had the building insulation done with spray foam by a local company.
M.C. ville Sheds can connect you with just the right storage shed for your needs. Call our office in Collinsville, VA today at (276) 734-.
Thanks for that. They are only about 35-40 minutes from me.
OP, Please do an extensive search on this site to see all the issues (to include myself) have had with metal buildings that were COMPLETELY avoidable but I just didnt know. One HUGE issue is the companies tell you to make the slab 1 foot wider and longer than the building, do not do this. Also pay for the 12g tubing, 26g r panels, and the vertical studs to be 4' on center instead of the standard 5' on center. Dont pay for the insulation they provide as its very expensive for what you get and eventually sags/fails. My last quick tip would be to play around with the 3D builder a TON and see what you can get for your money. I used alansfactoryoutlet.com to buld mine. The orientation of the doors on the eave vs gable end can make a large difference in price, as well as expanding the size on the gable vs eave ends. I would recommend building what you want, taking a screen shot or printing it out, then do it again ad again and again. take the time to pick what you want within your budget, then go back and rebuild it and expand it just a little bit. You'll see what I mean by it being cheaper to go just a little wider or longer at this stage instead of later on downt he road! Good luck and if you have any questions please ask!
What is the best size to make the cement slab? Would it make sense to have the building built first, and then have it cemented?